Cyclone 3000W Build and Ride Report Review

January 9, 2016

There is a lot of buzz around about the new Cyclone 3000W motor kit. This is a new improved motor just arriving to the mid-drive category that has been around a while, and has a respected following on the ebike builders forum endless-sphere.

Some very expensive re-brands have happened with the Cyclone. Its rumoured that the expensive Ego and AFT kits are just a Cyclone motor with better accessories and snazzier-looking components.

For more information on the Cyclone read our story here. 


Ride Report

WOW!…Just…wow. This thing is so awesome, but…since it is putting out 2000 watts+, it is definitely in the realm of being illegal for the street.

I have gotten used to my BBSHD which, in comparison…is a much milder and more refined riding experience. The Cyclone 3000W has gut wrenching power….it has this raw feel …nice solid freewheel noises, and it feels like it can climb anything . In fact, it feels much more like a motor-bike than a bicycle. It has get-you-in-trouble amounts of power.

We were clocking 40-MPH in high gear on a flat surface without pedaling. This thing is fun and awesome. I really was not expecting it to be this smooth…with a nice low pedal-cadence (so you can add pedaling if you want, to extend battery range) and a very solid feeling to it.

The 3000W Cyclone is audible…with the well-known whining of the electric motor…and it is definitely not “almost silent” like the Bafang BBS02 or BBSHD, but…it is not as loud as any other powerful mid drive I have ridden. This thing has true power…and when it is running at 40 amps and using a 52 volt battery, it is putting out 2100 watts. If I upgraded to a 72 volt battery, then I could get the full 3000 watts…and I imagine that I would be close to 50-MPH with even more torque.

If you didn’t need 50-MPH, the great thing about any mid drive is that…you can easily and cheaply change the gearing by swapping-out a chainring or rear wheel sprocket. A larger rear sprocket, or a smaller chainring (or both?) means you will have a lower top speed, but…more low-RPM torque, with a cooler running system.

This kit could get you into a lot of trouble. Sooo…before jumping on the power wagon, consider these points:

  • This much power is way more than any ebike needs
  • This kind of power would probably be considered illegal to operate at full power on most city streets
  • This kind of power can get you hurt bad if you crash at top speed
  • This kind of power will snap drivetrain components.
  • This kind of power is hard on batteries etc…
  • This kind of power is generally going to make the bike more unreliable.

Did I mention the Cyclone 3000 watt has a lot of power?

There are so many ramifications to a powerful ebike like this. If you buy this kit, and two months later you write to complain that now you have to replace your sprockets and chain more often?…nobody will cry for you, because…everybody knows that’s the price of joining the high-powered mid drive club.

Here is a video to give you an idea what 45mph with a 170 pound rider peddling feels like:

Cons of high power

  • Inefficient
  • noisier
  • possibly illegal
  • less reliable
  • hard on battery pack
  • you can hurt yourself

Pluses of high power

  • Easily go the speed of traffic, to stay ahead of texting car-drivers
  • Climb mountains
  • Blast through soft sand or snow
  • Impress your neighbors
  • Adrenaline thrills

Which Donor Bike?

Consider spending more money on your donor bike. If you use cheap components and add high power, it can be a dangerous combination…things you might want to consider:

  • Disc brakes are a must…preferably high quality
  • Full suspension is cool but difficult to mount, plus battery and frame might flex
  • Consider a hardtail downhill bike…the most practical donor solution
  • Quality ebike tires are a must, preferably DOT speed rated
  • High quality derailleur and shifters are needed to survive with high power

Our Donor Bike



We chose a $1250 carbon fiber hardtail bike from amazon. It was delivered in only two days. Actually we chose this bike for a BBSHD install but, the BBSHD did not fit this weird carbon fiber bottom bracket, so…we instead decided to try the Cyclone. Amazingly the Cyclone fit fine where as the BBSHD didn’t. If you DO get a hardtail, seriously consider also getting a suspension seat-post, like the popular Suntour NCX or the Thudbuster.

This 24-lb bike (not a mis-print!), uses 27.5-inch wheels, and the rear wheel uses a cassette freehub with ten sprockets.

Immediate upgrades you should consider

  • E-brakes! (the Cyclone kit does not come with ebrake power-cutoff)
  • High quality bicycle chain (remember if your chain breaks you are walking)
  • Ultra high quality disc brakes and rotors (we recommend Shimano Ice rotors)
  • Change to a thumb throttle
  • Cycle Analyst to limit and monitor power and battery

Which battery pack?

Picking a battery pack is not so easy for the Cyclone compared to most DIY kits…the stock Cyclone kit has a 40-amp controller that can handle up to 72 volts. 40 amps is hard on a cheap battery pack, and most cheap chinese battery packs will not put out this kind of power, especially if they are made from lithium cells.

You are going to need a powerful battery pack that can support this bike…probably a large Amp-hour (Ah) pack, because the Cyclone does suck a lot of juice. I think a 20-Ah pack is ideal for this bike if you have a place on your frame to fit it. The Luna Cycle 18650 soft shell and triangle packs with 50 amp BMS are a good choice. We used a 48V Luna Cycle 20-Ah pack using authentic Samsung 26F cells, mounted in the triangle with a Luna Cycle triangle bag. This combination was powerful and reliable. The cells only got a little warm with hard street riding.

Alternatively you could use higher quality, higher amperage cells such as the 25R and then run a much smaller Luna Cycle pack like the 52V / 10-Ah Samsung 25R pack…and still another option is to go with a Panasonic NCR-B 52v 20ah pack in a back pack. Those two options may be worth considering if you really want a full-suspension bike, with a very small frame triangle.

The battery pack we chose

We picked the biggest battery that would fit in our Luna Cycle triangle zip-bag which is the 52V / 20-Ah Samsung 26F. The large 20-Ah size is awesome, so we did not need top shelf cells like the more expensive 25R. The 26F handles the Cyclones power just fine in the 20-Ah size.  (see battery in store)

High Power Means not as efficient and less range

A bike with a 3000W motor will not be as efficient if you use that power. Wind resistance becomes a huge factor in speeds of over 30-MPH (45 km/h). Also, pedaling input does not mean as much when you are juicing 3000 watts…remember, a top cyclist puts out a max of 700 watts…so if you are throttling to 3000 watts don’t expect your pedal input to add much to your overall range.

Peak range numbers were made for misers on the throttle. You can’t expect to be burning high amps, and still get fantastic range. There is a solution to this as mentioned before…just buy a larger Ah battery. 20-Ah should easily get you 30-40 miles on the Cyclone even if riding hard.

The Cyclone 3000W?…high power at an amazing price point

Luna Cycles is currently selling this Cyclone kit at $389 for the complete system (just add bike and battery/charger). This is an amazing price. And let’s face it…much of the DIY ebike movement is about building an affordable ebike with great performance. For achieving those goals, the Cyclone 3000W is ideal. The Cyclone 3000W kit should capture the hearts of a lot of hard core DIYers who want to go fast on the cheap.

I do not know any better option for affordable performance. Consider this: to get a 40-MPH out of a hubmotor, you would need to go with a MXUS 3000W kit or Cromotor which are 25 pound motors that cost twice the price of the Cyclone and are 25 pounds mounted in a bicycle wheel, which really does suck as much as it sounds like it would…especially if you are going to ride off road on slow and technical obstacle trails.

The Cyclone is a 10 pound mid drive (compared to an equivalent 25-lb hubmotor)…that mounts in the middle of the bike on the bottom bracket…low on the bike…acting like a keel, The Cyclone uses the transmission of the bike so that you can go fast on flats or climb slowly on the most brutally steep hills. Because it is so well balanced…our Cyclone-powered bike can still do wheelies…go off jumps, and ride off road.

The Cyclone was awesome for buzzing up and down the block. Neighbors would come out and watch us blast by. In comparison the BBS02 and the BBSHD look and ride like normal bicycles. The Cyclone screams “electric bike”.

I loved the way the Cyclone looked, once it mounted to the bike. ALthough it looked ugly off the bike, like this big monstrosity….once on the bike, I had no complaints at all about the aesthetics.

Our mechanic is an ebike commuter and we decided to give the Cyclone an acid test, by riding through the middle of Los Angeles at night, with traffic 30 miles away to Hollywood…climbing some good sized hills along the way.

The first night he rode home on it, we weren’t sure he would make it and had our cell phones on and had the Luna Cycle “rescue” mini van on call in case he broke down (or ran out of battery). We never got the call. And our mechanic has been riding the 60 mile round trip daily commute…every day for a week, without incident. The bike performs exactly like it should…and we have now gotten a lot of confidence in the set up….and feel it is solid.

This big hunk of motor


I have really started to like this monstrosity of a motor. It actually looks awesome mounted to my bike…its a geared hub…and if you are only using 52V X 40A = 2080 watts, it never gets warm. I don’t worry about stripping the gears inside it, since they seem pretty damn beefy. This motor just does not seem delicate.

What makes the Cyclone pretty special is not how fast it spins…but how slowly it spins. It is spinning slowly with big torque, which is awesome for an ebike motor because you want to be able to have a usable pedal cadence and assist this beast, and the low rpms make that possible. Even though the axle is spinning slowly, the motor inside is spinning 5X as fast because of the planetary gear box…this makes the motor efficient, cool-running, and happy because all electric motors like to spin fast.

The Joy of building

OK, now we get to the building part which I know it doesn’t sound like the fun part. But there is a whole community of builders you can find on endless-sphere who take special thrill in building something that can blow the fenders off their buddies expensive store-bought ebike or the neighbors super easy to install but expensive kit.

The Cyclone is NOT an easy kit to install. It is rough and rugged. It comes with no instructional manual…you will not find a refined website with fancy install videos. With this thing you need to put it together and figure it out yourself. And when you do, you will feel this rewarding feeling that comes with building something that not everyone could pull off. The Cyclone is definitely a builders kit…and its not even really that hard to install…just a little tricky…but after you install it I bet you will get this tremendous rush knowing you have one of the meanest bad-ass ebikes on the block, and you were the one who built it!

To start your build we recommend you bench test your set up as soon as it arrives…get it working before you take the time and effort of installing it on the bike frame.

This is a great idea on a complex drive like this because its so much easier to troubleshoot when its on the bench then when its on the bike. Also, heaven forbid if your controller or motor is dead…you don’t have any time invested on the install, so its easier to send a part back for an exchange.

Although all our motors were bench tested we did not test each controller.

One of the trickiest parts of the cyclone is getting it to be just the right width for your bottom bracket (BB). We send it out in a base configuration…but, spacers can be taken out or prearranged to get it to work with different widths of bottom brackets. You may need to buy some basic washers to use as spacers. So it is up to the user to get the perfect spacing using your own ingeniuity and this is most of the difficulty in installing this kit.

Here are some tips we have learned with our own experience fiddling with the kit on our own install:

Getting the old BB off

  • This is a frustrating part of any mid drive bike build.
  • We recommend if you do not have bike tools to have a local bike shop do this step.
  • Taking the old BB cartridge out can take as long as 3 hours if you’re not a bike mechanic

There are two different sizes of BB. The cyclone comes with 2 types of BB….regular width and fat. You must use a combination of bearings or spacers (washers) to get the BB to fit on your particular bike.

Here’s a pic of the 2 different sizes of BB


The Cyclone 3000 comes in two different sizes…regular and fat. The only difference in the 2 kits is the Bottom Bracket and parts are different. On the left hand side you see the regular size, which is good for bikes from 68mm to 83mm…and then you see the fat kit for bikes from 83mm to 110mm (many fatbikes with 4-inch wide tires use 100mm). Between these two sizes the Cyclone will fit most BB’s, but…it will take some ingenuity on your part. Plus you may need to buy some bicycle tools that you don’t own yet.

Getting the BB to fit


  • On the standard BB kit (68-83mm) it comes with an extra bearing. You probably do not need this extra bearing. What we have heard from Cyclone is that the bearing is used for bikes with a 73mm bottom bracket..meaning the bearing gives you an extra 5mm of spacing.
  • There are many tricks to get the BB to work with the sizing you need. One easy trick is use of washers as spacers to get the spacing you need.
  • There is a 83-110mm kit that uses a different BB…and likewise you can use spacers as needed.

Basically use whatever skills and spacers you have to, in order to get the Cyclone BB to fit….or do whatever you need to get your old BB to fit. But because there is a lot of flexibility on how to get it to fit and no exact directions on how to achieve this, it can be a difficult step. This is something a local bike shop can help with. And let’s be honest, there are dozens of bicycle BB configurations, so there will never be a single solution.

Sizing of two chains

The Cyclone requires TWO chains…one from the front chainring to the back wheel, and one from the motor to the chainring. This is the old school way of doing a mid drive that Bafang and Bosch almost made obsolete with their ultra clean mid drives, but the 2 chain set up works suprisingly well once it is set up right. To get this right you have to get the size of your chains to just the right length, which can be a frustrating experience. Again we recommend you to defer to your local bicycle shop to quickly do this part of the install. Sizing bicycle chains can suck.

Getting Chain Tensioner set up Right:



Once you got the chains set to the right length, the Cyclone has a tensioner which needs to be adjusted any way you can (even with a ziptie) to make it just the right tension so your drive chain does not keep popping off. We had the chain come off a few times, but once we got it tensioned right? …the chain has not fallen off since.

Getting the throttle to fit

The Basic Cyclone kit comes with a right-side twist throttle. We love the quality of this throttle. It has a key on/off switch and a voltage meter. It is awesome. However it will not work with many installations because it might interfere with the stock bicycle gear shifter. Unlike the Bafang kits, it doesn’t come with a convenient simple thumb throttle which would be better suited for this kit. Twist throttles can be dangerous on kits such as this. Here are possible solutions to the problem:

  • You can turn the throttle upside down and run on the left side…
  • Change to a Half twist left-side throttle from Taiwan
  • Rewire it to any thumb throttle

Wrestling with an ebike Controller


This bike uses a standard ebike controller and these things can be a pain in the ass. They are a spaghetti-ball of wires with cheap Chinese connectors. Dealing with this mess can really be a pain. Here is a pic that will show you which wires need to be connected…and the rest you can just ignore.

More install pictures

Here are the install pics we got from Cyclone to help you figure out this installation:


Written by Eric, January 2016

Eric has been involved in the electric bike industry since 2002 when he started a 6000 square foot brick and mortar Electric Bike store in downtown San Francisco. He is a true believer that small electric vehicles can change the way we operate and the way we think.


  1. Yikes!! The Open Moving Chain? Here is my devised polycarbonate plastic chainguard. The 3rd photo is of a chainguard I made from 1.5″ ID Fuel hose. It will not break,

    • Gold idea and gold point Dennis…but in 15000km in a similar setup I never had anything caught up in that part of the chain run…BUT I had my shoe laces caught a few times where the chain runs on to the big chainring (coming from the back wheel).

      • Al,

        perhaps I was a little gun shy on the Cyclone Setup. Shortly after getting the LRSB Midrive working( see 3rd photo) for devised chainguard, I got my pant leg caught but escaped with a very minor piece of cloth fuzzed up. Within a couple of hours while crossing a busy street was the second time having only a short open interval for the bike path. I coasted to the other side and got my leg free, thinking I was just missing a small bit of corduroy fuzz. But a bigger piece of cloth was riding on the ring and chain to the rear derailleur. Upon acceleration the 10 speed chain was thoroughly destroyed when it derailed into the space between the 2 chainrings and then mashed into the chainstay.

        If you look at photo 3 closely you can see a gear clamp to the left of the chain rings on the right chain stay. It hold a piece of shaped aluminum that has about zero clearance with the big chainring. This aluminum obstruction keep the big chainring from dragging anything between it and the chain stay.

  2. “it is definitely in the realm of being illegal for the street” is an understatement. In every state, this is a motor vehicle and would require license and registration. You could probably ride it on OHV trails that allow motorcycles. In my opinion, this is irresponsible to review and expose these types of add-on products that covert a standard bicycle, that was never intended to be motorized and converted into a motorcycle. Bicycles and “low-speed electric bicycles” which are defined by law are engineered for safety at less the 1/3 of this type of power. I’d hate for these types of vehicles thwart the progress that the BPSA and People for Bikes is making to fix bad e-bike legislation.

    • Larry Pizzi ,

      illegal “In every state” ? There was time when possession of weed was illegal in every state. It is presently illegal to drive over 80 mph on the Interstate. It seems illegal weed gets one in more trouble than speeding. The ebike charge for more wattage or too much speed would most likely be a low missdemeanor–like speeding?

      And for these bikes being illegal “In every state” ? Not so. The often cited federal law tells us what is legal by federal standards. It does not tell us this bike for having more wattage and speed is illegal. It just is not protected by the cited federal law. It would take another law describing the situation making them illegal and some, but not all states, currently have such catch all laws.

      Get a clue, Luna Cycles can sell such this product legally much like Summit Racing can sell a Paxton Supercharger that fits a street car which permits them to outrun Police interceptors.

      Dream on: Nothing is really engineered safe. Your idea, “engineered for safety” is like Pyramid Power talk–free from electromagnetic radiation?

      • Dennis – The cited federal law only creates a vehicle classification of a “low-speed electric bicycle” but has no bearing at all on use. That is defined state by state under the vehicle code. Are you aware of ANY state where a vehicle of this type does not require a vehicle registration? I don’t.

        Also, my point about safety is regarding a standard bicycle being modified with kitted torque and power. Bikes are simply not designed for such modification. Of course, it is not illegal to sell the kit, and probably not illegal to use it on some public lands in a trail environment designated for motorized use.

        Your being pretty defensive so I won’t push it. I just am concerned about these types of products reeking havoc on our BPSA / People for Bikes efforts to get legislation fixed for “low-speed electric bicycles”, thats all.

        Best regards and good luck to you in this new year.

        • Larry,

          “so I won’t push it” You already have when you said, “products reeking havoc on…” Simply Nonsense! We don’t reek havoc on… your whatever agenda…..?

          There are violations of the rules[laws] in 2 ways and these are often called “a difference in kind” and a “difference in degree.”

          All bicycles with petals and electric motors are in the category of petal assisted ebikes. They are made from the same petal bike components and said to be of the same kind regardless of what speed they can do.

          The fact that the ebike can do 21mph instead of the allowed 20 needs a test to determine such differences. I can pedal assist my fixed 20mph max ebike to get over 20 mph. Am I now illegal? The wind blows and move me over 20mph and so I have exceeded the 20 mph limit in matter of degree. Oh and I have had my road bike up to 54 mph.

          ” Bikes are simply not designed for such modification” however true this statement is [defacto : they were designed as bikes] it falls short….because it in no way does it rate how unsafe they may be by modifying. A more meaningful statement and a lie would have been to say “they are [underdesigned and unsafe] for such modification.” The evidence to substantiate such a claim is not out there. How many cases can you cite where one of these “overpowered ebikes” has ruined some else’s property and lives?

          • Dennis, When god forbid someone is seriously injured or worse, perhaps at that time you will have a better understanding of the reasons we have CPSC regulations and laws that govern use in this country.

          • Larry its just a matter of time… San Francisco alone 25 people die a year on bicycles….as more and more ebikes get on the street there will be fatalities. RIdiing on 2 wheels is dangerous…regardless of how fast they go.

          • before anyone downplays this thing, allow me to describe the situation in israel, on the other extremes.

            officially in israel, there’s only the E.U standard, unofficially there are around 150,000 ebikes riding around , the ruling majority of them are crap Chinese folders, and almost all of them are illegally throttle operated. some are driven by kids under the age 14, without helmets , and on the sidewalks.

            most have upgrades that can even go up to “gulp” 500w or even sligthly , but those are not e-s builds.

            “e-s” builds are much more rare, the most i’ve see are around 1000 maybe 1500w.

            it is illegal to upgrade a bike at a shop

            it is illegal to upgrade a bike at home.

            it is illegal to even import ANY sort of kit, even it conforms to the e.u standard, thus naturally it is illegal to have a D.I.Y bike which will conform to the e.u standard, unless it’s assembled in a pre-approved “israeli standards institute” factory (there’s no such factory in israel).

            currently (and i’m not sure about it) if you try to import an entire bike which does conform to the e.u standard, it may still need to be sent to be re-examined but israeli institute for about 5000$. but this is not new, the Israeli institute is known to be a corrupt monopoly, which forces by mandatory law the re-approve products which have international standards. this incurs costs on the final prices

            all the media outlets go against ebikes, it’s rare you’ll see any pro articles about , all the comments go against them, saying they should be legislated, insured and type approved.

            police once or twice a year, have started doing “raids” on shops which are known to do upgrades, fining their owners and bringing them to court.

            they have now (even more rare) started doing “operations” on the street where the police in conjunction with DMV representatives setup a check point in the city examine individual ebikes passing around and confiscate them if they don’t conform.

            just to clarify they view a 350w throttle operated bike as driving an unlicensed motor vehicle, they will not fine, they will take it away to be destroyed.

            this has not been the case 5 years ago. but coupled with congestive traffic ,non existing functional transporation and one of the highest taxing system in the world for vehicles has led to the exponential growth, and we have very little in the way of bike paths.

            the DMV has promised to issue new directives in 6 months, and i’m pretty sure it won’t be in the style of the California new laws, but the opposite, some thing they might start to demand license and registration for e.u pedelecs.
            e.u themselves have lately released 2 new standards one has 1000w power limit, must pedal assist and limited to 25 kph, the other limited to 45 kph and up to 3000 w, considered a moped. both must go through type approval process (means no d.i.y)

            it has gotten to a point where i’m pondering whether i should invest myself in another kit, if eventually gonna be taken away from me. and i use mine to travel 17 a day, sometimes more.

            that’s why i always to find out the “true” technical nature of an ebike, having one go 17 mph with just a throttle to be considered as motorcycle (hey, it’s bycicle and has a motor, as some would say) is one end of the extreme, and having an bicycle ride at 40 mph cannot be considered a ebike but as a moped. (people here always get a moped called piago with 50cc engine with pedals as an example) .
            for my money, and looking at what other people have written, and made, it seems to me, that it safe for an ebike to be up to 1500w, and go up to 40-45 kph, beyond i understand it becomes extremely inefficient. but that’s probably never gonna legal

            i’m saying that ebikes become popular, luna cycles might have cops banging on THEIR doors..

          • I hope this never happens in the US. The only reason for the government to get involved is so that they can take money away from us. It’s not about safety. I am having so much fun on the trails because of this kit. I would never have gone out there if I didn’t have a motor. The climbs are horrendous! I use the kit in order to keep up with my friends.

          • Problem is a lot of the laws are a bit non-nonsensical.
            Take the definition of a bicycle and a moped from my state.

            §17C-1-8. Bicycle.

            “Bicycle” means every device which does not have a motor attached and which is propelled by human power upon which any person may ride, having two tandem wheels either of which is more than twenty inches in diameter.


            Note that bit about “No Motor Attached” – putting any motor on a bicycle makes it a moped. Next is “Two Tandem Wheels”, so legally Trikes and Qudra-cycles are unclassified vehicles in my state, unless they have a motor attached then Trikes are Mopeds, see below.

            §17C-1-5a. Moped.

            “Moped” means every motorcycle or motor-driven cycle unless otherwise specified in this chapter, which is equipped with two or three wheels, foot pedals to permit muscular propulsion and an independent power source providing a maximum of two brake horsepower.

            If a combustion engine is used, the maximum piston or rotor displacement shall be fifty cubic centimeters regardless of the number of chambers in such power source.

            The power source shall be capable of propelling the vehicle, unassisted, at a speed not to exceed thirty miles per hour on a level road surface and shall be equipped with a power drive system that functions directly or automatically only, not requiring clutching or shifting by the operator after the drive system is engaged.


            The up side is the e-bikes here are limited to 30mph purely on motor power and up to 2 Break Horse power (~1.49 kW), but have to be registered and have insurance (regular drivers license required, no need for Motorcycle endorsement).

            Honestly though, if I’m doing more then that I’d want DOT tires/breaks and a full on helmet.

            BTW – the way the moped definition is written it allows for a number of interesting alternative power sources. One guy several years back built a steam powered Trike and registered it as a custom moped. 😀

          • Get out of here Larry Pizzi you safety clown. We don’t need the government involved in this in any way, shape or form more then it already is. Your e-bikes suck and are under powered, overpriced junk for the lazy, uninformed, uninitiated or those who can’t build a bike on their own. Way to play the safety card you liberal douche.

          • Hahaha that made me laugh.

    • Thanks Larry for your different view…you stand for the opposite of a lot of the things i believe in but i totally respect it and value your input.

  3. What is that giant worm drive hose clamp used for? This is a very cool system but the hose clamp looks like crap – just my opinion. What can be done to find another way?

    • The hose clamp holds the white plastic cap in place. I tried a very tight cable tie, but the cap slowly slipped downward, hence the gear clamp. I also looked for an ABS black plastic cap but there were none this size. The OD of these caps, which can be about any off size, is not equal to the ID of the hose.

      • Thanks Dennis! So what does this white plastic cap do? Do you or anyone have pics of the white plastic cap? Maybe there is a kind of hat shaped aluminum or steel part that one can make and then use it as a pattern to drill and tap the motor housing to make a better looking and perhaps better functioning part?

        • Roy,

          the chainguard et al are my creation and as such are all kludge. The intention of the cap was to stop debris from falling through the tube and getting on top of the chain where when moving it would be moved unto the big rig and bound up. The white cap is a sch40 1 1/4″ white PVC water line fitting. I am not changing this so as to make it look better to other folks. You know Satre? ….”Hell is other people..”

  4. The Luna 52v triangle pack arrived today and I got the complete unit out for 15 miles today. This evening I notice the motor output hub looked askew and angled toward the chainring. Evidence to correlate with this skewness was that the 2 through sets of anchoring bolts that hold the motor to the BB frame were not entirely straight looking. The simple fix is to add another gear clamp on the left side of the motor and have the strap of the clamp passing over the 2 standoffs that the motor anchors bolts pass through. See Photo. After tightening the clamps somewhat and pulling the motor fins into standoffs [slightly] the motor looked to have much better alignment. I will monitor this setup tomorrow.

    There is also the another big gear clamp whcih was included that holds the motor to the clamp[supplied cable tie] on the down tube.

    • awesome thanks for the feedback….any advice you can offer other builders is appreciated.

      • After looking at the above instructions[that I did not look at before now] I see that the Luna build group may have intended the setup to be with the gear clamp on the left side of the motor and have the offset cable tie pulling at an angle. I did like the alignment they suggested with the plastic cable tie sideways on so moved the supplied gear clamp to the right to have it directly under the down tube.

  5. Finally I got an odometer on this Cyclone setup and next gave it a 100% charge with the new Luna Charger. RO Max says 41.7. Larry Pizzi, I do not know what these numbers could mean. But just after this the motor drive chain broke. It was a new Bell 1/2″ x 1/8″ chain from Wally world for 10 speeds to 24–the old friction shift. I chose this chain thinking strength and stability. The failure was that a link spread open. The master link set up would not clear my chainguard so I added the outside link and both pins were pushed twice. Perhaps not the best job on my part of putting the chain together?

    My next chain choice was a brand new but ancient sach-sedis chain left over from the last days of “click shift”. It has both the inside and the outside links spread open rather than being flat, meaning less stability and an ease to derail to another gear. Immediately upon the test ride, I noticed this chain was much quieter than the friction shift Bell chain. But it derailed in about 6 blocks. I wanted the silent chain more than the old 1 speed Bell. The problem had to be the pulley spring’s angled off — poor attachment lineup that caused the inside chain derailment — between the 2 big rings. I cut the cable tie from where Luna builders suggest and placed a new cable tie to the spring such that it’s pull was in the plane of the motor pulley/big chain ring. The fixed anchor for this spring holding tie is one of the standoffs to my chainguard. No more derailments have occurred. see pic

  6. Is it wrong for my cackling inner evil genius to want to strap one of these on to an ELF, just to see what will happen? 😀

  7. Love to get an update on how this bike is holding up after a few months.

  8. I have a Bianchi Volpe and wish to take it across the country. Due to a tendon sprain, I need electric power to supplement my leg power. Is it possible to take this kit, which I view as light and cheap and durable, and limit it to say, 750 watts and install it on my bike with stock parts to do this? How many other mods would I have to do to make it work?

    • Definately use a Kelly controller to limit power. Add a cadence switch to crank so motor power is automatically applied to assist while pedaling.

  9. 3kw ordered, 400 Samsung inr batteries due in a few days, 2 x 37v 50ah 10s BMS and 1 72v 100amp 20s BMS. You guessed it setting up dual 37v 40ah 10s packs that can run series or parallel and a second 72v 50ah 20s pack for inside a cargo trailer. All mounted on a Kmx kart cobra trike utilizing a mega range rear cassette and double freewheel setup.

    Adding a cycle analyst v3 and Kelly controller mini 24-72v enabling any combo of batteries. Up front will be a windwrap fairing and mount. All accessories will be powered off custom packs via built in variable DC to DC converter with display.

    Supplemental power will eventually be provided by a bendable 80watt 80volt solar cover for cargo trailer. Management of solar to batteries is current issue but designing a custom control circuit allowing battery to charge while under load shouldn’t be to difficult.

    • I would love to see how your bike turned out.

  10. To hell with the UK . This is US of A

  11. I bought a 3000w cyclone motor, controller, elite bike frame and somethings else they are all a low quality items, noting compared to bafang (I had it also).
    An item was not shipped and they didn’t care, you have to pay attention to sellers like these

  12. The bike is rubbish, sorry. A good meaty aluminium hardtail with a NORMAL fork and so on for that price is more than possible.

Leave a Reply

%d bloggers like this: