Definitive Guide to Ebike Connectors

Editor note: Part 1 of a 5 part series on the wiring of DIY ebikes

Choosing the right connectors for your electric bike battery can be a critical decision for a person who is new to electric bikes. If you become a real ebike enthusiast later, the connector you select now will impact your ebike experience for the next 10 years. The reason being is, you probably will opt to use the same connectors on your different battery packs so that you can use the same charger, use different battery packs on different bikes. We recommend you pick a good connector now and stick with your choice.

Inevitably many DIY ebike builders use their connectors as on/off switches (read our story on on/off switches) and in this case your connector will need to be extra robust because it will be plugged and unplugged often which is hard on connectors because they arc and spark.

When considering which connector to go with, consider convenience, reliability, durability, water resistance level, smallness (how easy is it to hide), and price. Ebike connectors for battery pack wires should be impossible to accidentally plug-in facing the wrong direction (this is called polarized)…remember, you might be fidgeting with these in dim light if you are using them for an ON/OFF switch.

For your convenience, here is a list of various ebike connectors with recommended maximum amperage and a quick run down of pros and cons.


Anderson Connectors

AndersonPowerpole2 (1)


I see these a lot on DIY bikes as charging connectors. That is because chargers rarely charge over 7 amps and these connectors are cheap.  They are an old technology which I feel has been surpassed by better connectors. Note that this is the mini version of the Anderson connector and shouldnt be confused with its big brother which is much larger and I feel too big to be used in an ebike.

The shape of the 30A Anderson connector housings allows two (or more) of them to be connected together side-by-side. It is “possible” to mate two of them so that they can be plugged in backwards to the opposing pair. I recommend that if you buy these (or buy a product that already has them installed), attach the two side-by-side housings so that the pins inside form the shape of a “T” when you look at the end. Once they are configured for safety, put a piece of heat-shrink tubing over them to prevent them from coming apart (and then possibly re-connected in a bad orientation).

Their official name is Anderson Power Poles  (APP).


Maximum Amperage30 amps
CostExtremely cheap…less than a dollar cheap as 50 cents a pair.
How easy is it to install?Pretty easy if you have the right crimping tools (read our story on going solderless)
How easy is it to Plug in?Not so easy…it can be a pain in the ass. also the black and the red come disconnectted a lot requiring a lot of tinkering to get it to work right.
Life expectancy? Is it durable?Not very durable, both electrically and mechanically. These are easily roasted and easily smashed.  If you want to go with robust go with the bigger brother.
Is it small in size?yes pretty small recommended?No not recommended…this is an antiquated technology
Source where to buy cheapYou can buy them 50 cents each here in bulk  on ebay


Deans Plugs



Deans plugs are extremely popular with DIY ebike builders and RC modelers alike. People have figured out they can handle a lot of amps, are dirt-cheap, and are a small size (their tiny size is the main reason they are popular for wires inside the body of an RC plane). However they are notoriously hard to solder, and they have very poor moisture resistance (it may not be raining when you go out, but it might start raining before you get home). We recommend if you are going to buy these buy them with pig tails (a factory pre-soldered section of wire), which will make your life so much easier.  (read our story on solderless ebiking)

In the pic below, you can see that even when the pair is fully connected together, moisture getting on the plug-set could lead to a short very easily. This is what we mean for moisture resistance, and Deans do not score well.

As you also can see in this pic, when this pair is dis-connected, the male pins are fully exposed. This is the reason that electrical tradition puts the female connector on the battery side of any part of the system. If you are working on parts that are on the bench, it would be easy for the male connector to brush up against something metal, creating a short circuit, huge sparks, maybe a fire, and possibly damaging your expensive battery. Even if you use a double-shrouded connector (like the XT’s below)…if you put the male end on the battery side, it is one of the signs of an amateur.


Maximum Amperage50 amps, and some people push them even further.
Costextremely cheap..less than a dollar per pair…50 cents in bulk.
How easy is it to install?Pain in the ass to install…requires solder and good technique. The hardest connector on this list to install. We recommend you buy with pigtails.
How easy is it to Plug in?Not so easy…it can be a pain in the ass.
Life expectancy? Is it durable?Fairly durable.  Although it can roast with continual plugging and unplugging.
Is it small in size?very small and compact… recommended?If you buy with pigtails it is an acceptable solution
Source where to buy cheapVarious sources but keep in mind there are authentic deans which are usually better than clones. Hobbykings clones however are better than original.


XLR connectors

20130528144912_18479 XLR-Female

XLR’s have a heavy-duty metal shell with a latch that will prevent them from coming apart by accident. They also score very high for moisture resistance. They can be ordered with a variety of pin-counts, but the more pins you choose, the bigger the connector will be. There is nothing wrong with them, and I like how the male pins are enshrouded when it is apart, but…their bulk makes them a tight fit inside a battery housing, and the metal shell makes me nervous.

There should never be any loose wires inside a battery housing for the XLR connector housing to short against, but…if something does work loose, I don’t want anything metal exposed near a lot of wiring connections. Whats better? Your E-bike comes to a halt and you have to find a loose connector? or…you are riding and suddenly smell smoke?


Maximum Amperage40amps because it is hard to squeeze thick enough wires into it.
CostCheap $1 each
How easy is it to install?Fairly difficult…requires soldering. Hard to find with pigtails
How easy is it to Plug in?Super easy…the best.
Life expectancy? Is it durable?Very durable
Is it small in size?No…fairly large and hard to conceal recommended?For lower power bikes this is a sweet solution.
Source where to buy cheapVarious sources





These are our favorite connectors for E-bikes. They come in two sizes. We still recommend you buy them with pigtails attached, but they are fairly easy to solder wires to. If you do solder to them, attach a male/female pair to hold the pins in perfect alignment, until the soldering is over. The pins can rotate in the housing (with needle-nose pliers) if you want to lay them flat on their sides and have the solder/wire “cup” facing up. I use these for 14ga/12ga wire, and cover the soldered joint with 5mm heat-shrink. Ron likes to use these for the charging connector to the battery (female on the battery side!).

No connector in this article is truly water-PROOF, but…the XT connectors (and also the connector types shown below) are as moisture-resistant as you can get.


Maximum Amperage60amps
CostCheap $1 each
How easy is it to install?Fairly hard. Requires soldering, but easier to solder than a deans.
How easy is it to Plug in?Very easy
Life expectancy? Is it durable?Very durable
Is it small in size?small recommended?awesome new generation of connector highly recommended
Source where to buy cheapHobby King




The same as the XT60, but a little bit larger and doesn’t melt with 90 amps of power. These are pricey at 1.50 each but worth every penny if you are running high power. Highly recommended. The wire insertion cup fits very fat 10ga wire (or smaller, of course) and I use 6mm heat-shrink tubing to cover the solder joint. “Heat shrink” is dirt cheap from Hobby King. Ron uses these between the battery and the controller.  Of course, your life will be easier if you order them with factory installed pigtails.

Even with this style of connector housing having a well-designed “fully enshrouded” shape on the male pins, it is still traditional to attach the female connector to  the battery side of the wires. When the controller is unplugged, there may be a small amount of energy still stored in the capacitors, but…the battery on a high current E-bike can have a fiery melt-down if you set a metal tool on the workbench and the tip shorts the two male pins together.

The enshrouded male plugs on the XT90 connectors make that scenario very unlikely, but…we still use female connectors on the battery side.


Bullet connectors




The pins inside these plastic housings range in size from 2.5mm up to 8mm in diameter, with corresponding current handling abilities. Tops in the price / current handling ratio. The 4mm size is commonly used by RC chargers &  is also used in “HXT 4mm” plugs , that combine a male and female bullet connector with insulation inside a polarized housing to make one nice and easy to use connector.  The moisture-resistance is as good as the XT90 connectors that we like.


Here is a raw male/female bullet connector pair without the polarising plastic housings.


LiPo battery packs are the best choice for racing, but we want to encourage E-bikers who charge batteries in their home to use the much safer packs based on the 18650 cell. That being said, the 4mm HXT connector shown is what is commonly used to connect 6S LiPo “sub packs” (we call them bricks) to a wiring harness. That kind of wiring harness (looks like an octopus) connects all the LiPo sub-packs up to one connector that goes to the controller. The main connector should be much bigger than the sub-pack connector, and we would recommend the XT90 (seen above) for that job.


JST Balance Connectors



Nere is a balance plug set "extender". If you buy one of these and cut the wires in the middle, you'd have a male-female plug set with factory-installed pigtails.

Here is a JST balance plug set “extender”. If you buy one of these and cut the wires in the middle, you’d have a male-female plug set with factory-installed pigtails.


Most battery packs have balance wires going into a Battery Management System (BMS). These small diameter wires allow the BMS to track the state of charge of each cell. Also, when a battery pack is “bulk charged” (the common method), each cell might end up with a slightly different state of charge. Most BMS’s will trickle-drain the cells that are higher for a few minutes, so that the end result is a pack where every cell starts out at exactly the same precise voltage.

Balance plugs are why we started liking pigtails from the factory (which only require a simple “butt splice” to connect two wires). There was one project that we wanted to look professional, with as few wire connections as possible. We bought the pins and connectors for the JST balance plugs. These pins are TINY!, to fit the tiny wires. It was a nightmare, and even if we thought we had done a good job, one loose connection that “looked good” could ruin a cell in the middle of an expensive battery pack.

We’re mentioning JST balance plugs because E-bikers who are using a LiPo pack have a paralleled balance plug harness so they can “balance-charge” their pack (using an RC charger), since most DIY LiPo battery packs do not use a BMS

If you need a JST balance plug and socket set, they are very cheap and well done by the factory (don’t even try to buy and crimp the wires into the pins, then insert into the plug). Order an “extender” like the one shown in the pic above, do a continuity check with a cheap voltage meter to verify its good, then cut the wires in the middle.


QR Connectors

QR stands for “quick release”. Like some newer smart-phones, there is a connector called an RoPD that is becoming common on factory E-bikes. The shallow plastic housing is polarized, so it can’t be plugged in backwards, and the flat-faced metal contacts are held together by a magnet. I doubt the DIY guys will ever use these, but we thought you’d like to know what these are called when you see them on expensive factory E-bikes.


The RoPD factory “smart” coinnector.


The latest technology is usually the domain of commercial ebikes, and these snazzy connectors shown below are making their way slowly to the DIY scene.

QR connectors

Putting the connectors together:

xt90 pigtails


We really recommend that if your going to order connectors, get them in bulk with pigtails installed (the shipping often costs more than  the connectors, so…why not get extra?). This will make your life so much easier. Instead of soldering yourself, have some guy in China solder your pig tails on for you. Then use a crimp connection to attach the 2 wires and you’re done (bend the exposed copper wire of both ends into a “J” shape, insert them into the copper cup, crimp it, and slip heat-shrink over it). Make sure to buy heat-shrink tubing at the same time if you buy connectors from Hobby King.



Instead of investing in a 100W soldering iron…invest in a good set of crimpers and some crimp-connectors from Waytek. Using these, you can do electrical repairs even when there’s no electricity around for the soldering iron. And we can clamp-down the heat-shrink insulation over the wire joint with a simple cigarette lighter.


Here’s our article on crimping and soldering wires to connectors. It was written for mid drives, but it is useful for any ebike wiring job.


Sources for electric bike connectors:

Powererx – wide variety of connetors. A bit expensive but convenient and fast.

Hobbyking – Great cheap source of connectors and adaptors..but you are ordering out of china and shipping can be slow.

Waytek An excellent resource for various connectors especially for crimp connectors

Top Secret EV If you are an ebike manufacturer and looking for a way to soure nifty QR connectors


Eric has been involved in the electric bike industry since 2002 when he started a 6000 square foot brick and mortar Electric Bike store in downtown San Francisco. He is a true believer that small electric vehicles can change the way we operate and the way we think.


  1. Typical. My new battery and charger came with Andersons. And I have changed to Andresons on my other battery and regulators, and they all work good. And now I read that they are no good and outdated. I will keep them until they are worn out. But I agree, they are large.

    • “But I agree, they are large.”
      When I got my GM battery the only word that came to mind was HUGE !

  2. I have had no problems with the 50+ Anderson 45 amp connectors I have used from ConnectorPros on ebay. I’m not that interested in soldering that many connections, but I am interested in trying out the XT60. Great article, thanks for writing it.

  3. Hobby King has a West USA warehouse in Oregon, I think. Shipping takes 3 days, generally. Same for the Eastern USA warehouse, I will guess.

    I like the XT60’s, but I wondered if they were so good, given the price. This is really useful information. Silicon wire is nice to work with. Color coded heat shrink is cool.

  4. Got myself some Andersons, XT60s and MT60s before reading this site, and very thankful for the soldering info. It will probably save me a wasted pair when learning how to mount a new connector.

    My bike uses Andersons for discharge and XLR for charge.
    IMO the XLR is fine, but Andersons genderless design doesn’t quite beat the compactness and durability of a properly mounted XT60, and I’m able to further reduce the size of the cable assembly by using MT60 for the motor phases.

    I was hoping to find some kind of de-facto standard for the MT60 wiring, but no luck so far.

  5. This site is so awesome! Love the new design! This is the second time i read this article! The only one i could find on power connectors! I Choose XT60 for my projects (electric scooters 500-1200W). But i would recommend bying from aliexpress rather than hobbyking. hobbyking maby better for american users but in sweden they are to expensive in shipping.

  6. I am new to the electric bike. I am going to replace the orginal XLR connector of my bike charger.

    Does anyone know whether I can use XLR connector which is dedicated for audio devices for the connector of my bike charger? It is hard to find XLR connector specifically for bike charger.

  7. No mention of anti-spark connectors? Maybe we can get list of those too.

    • XT60 and XT90 in the article are definitely anti-spark.

      • Those are definitely not anti spark connectors. The anti spark versions are denoted with -S, ie: XT90-S and are clearly marked differently with a green indicator on the connectors.

  8. What are those “snazzy” connectors on the bottom of the article. They look like what I need for my ebike brake motor cutoff switch connector on a new Pedego Interceptor. And where can I get them?

    • Any luck in finding those ? My bike has them and as I plan on adding a couple of e-gizmos, I would rather keep the same style of connectors…

      • They are Higo mini-C connectors and I have only found OEM suppliers. Only ones I have found that consumers can buy are the Higo mini-B connectors. They are similar to the C’s but without the threaded portion that holds the two connectors together. I am hope eventually they become available to us. If you do find any please let me know. Thanks.

  9. Can you tell me the name of the connector that will be used in the new e-bike bosch motors? The connector of charger, round with three flat pins. I need to buy these connectors in bulk and I don’t know where. Thanks.

  10. With conector is on the brose motor

  11. What about the xt150 connectors?

  12. Apart from the Anderson,all the other connectors are not safe for Ebikes. The XLR are for 24V used on Mobility scooters.
    The Anderson is my favorite, can sometimes be a bit fiddly to mate together,but at least you cant connect the wrong way! The other connector is Cliffcon which is a locking connector plug with a screw collar.

  13. 2000 watt, 48 volt electric bike kit came with Anderson connectors. After a year or two they would vibrate loose, arc and short out. Replaced them three times. Finally replaced them with XT-60 with pigtails. Haven’t had a problem since.

  14. I have a new ebike battery on its way that has an XT60 connector, however, my new controller has this 2-pin barrel-type of connector (the pins are exposed)…short of cutting the wires on the controller and soldering on an XT60 male connector, for the life of me, I cannot figure out what other type of connector arrangement/adapter scenario I should pursue. Any recommendations? Thanks everyone!

  15. The aim existence is, you perhaps will opt to use the same connectors on your dissimilar battery packs so that you container use the similar charger, use dissimilar battery packs on dissimilar bikes. Click this link:

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